By LORI YATES
Special to The Oakland Press
While many Detroiters may think of deep-dish pies when they contemplate pizza, Pizzeria Biga in Royal Oak is proving that thin-crust, crispy and chewy pizza dough can be just as satisfying.
The restaurant topps its crust with distinctive and flavorful ingredients and it all adds up to one excellent meal.
After critical acclaim, commercial success and a James Beard Award nomination at Southfield Italian spot Bacco, chef and owner Luciano Del Signore branched out with a more casual eatery focusing on pizza when he opened the original Pizzeria Biga in Southfield. With popularity at that establishment also, a second Biga opened in Royal Oak last spring, and an outpost is planned for Ann Arbor, as well.
FYI: Pizzeria Biga, at 711 S. Main St., Royal Oak is open for food service 4 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday, with bar service until midnight Monday through Saturday and 11 p.m. Sunday. For more information, call 248-544-BIGA (2442) or visit www.pizzeriabiga.com.
The Royal Oak location is housed in a building more than 100 years old, once used as a streetcar power plant. The inside has high ceilings and lots of light from large windows and skylights. The restaurant is furnished modestly with wooden tables and plastic chairs and the vibe is relaxed but fashionable. The pizza oven and open kitchen are visible from the dining room.
The Italian word biga means “yeast,” and the yeast used at Pizzeria Biga is what makes the dough so special. This dough is then fired in a 900-degree wood-burning oven, which means the end result is a Neapolitan-style pizza that is pleasantly charred and crisp in some spots and chewy and tangy in others.
Biga serves two styles of 12-inch pizzas: white (no sauce) and red (with sauce). White pizza styles include toppings such as clams, roasted eggplant and cured meats such as prosciutto and speck.
The smoked salmon pizza is an improvement upon a delicatessen bagel sandwich. The fresh-smoked salmon is paired with salty capers, juicy slices of tomato and a sprinkling of red onion and dill. The light and bright flavors are unexpected for a pizza, but it works incredibly well.
The more traditional red pizzas are coated with a sweet and savory fresh tomato sauce and topped with surprising ingredients such as soft-cooked eggs, mushroom ragu and capicolla (cured pork). The Farm Egg pizza has creamy ricotta and tender roasted zucchini topping the red sauce, as well as a runny egg in the middle of the pie. The egg yolk can be spread across the rest of the toppings, creating a rich second sauce. The Bacco Sausage pizza is also outstanding, bringing the house-made specialty sausage from Biga’s sister restaurant and putting it on crust with roasted onions and hot peppers. All pizzas can be customized with additional toppings such as Gorgonzola cheese and pine nuts, or, for the more traditional palate, pepperoni and basil.
It’s refreshing to see salads crafted with just as much care as main courses, and that’s exactly what is done at Biga. All of the salads offered are made with the freshest ingredients found anywhere, perfectly dressed in the right amount of vinaigrette. The Biga Chop Salad is hearty and satisfying, packed with salami, big chunks of Gorgonzola, hearts of palm, hard-boiled egg, tomato and chickpeas and tossed with Dijon-red wine vinaigrette.
The Whole Grain Salad can make a quinoa and lentil lover out of anyone. Also tossed with farro, chickpeas, tomato, asparagus and lemon and olive oil dressing, this salad demonstrates that perfectly cooked grains and legumes can be just as delicious as a cheesy pizza. All salads are served in small and large sizes. A small salad could be split as a starter course for two to three people, or enjoyed as an entrée for a single diner.
For those looking for Italian favorites beyond pizza, a pasta list features favorites like spaghetti and meatballs and rigatoni bolognese. The Strozzapreti Norcina, an iconic dish from Bacco is served here as well. Hand-shaped twists of pasta and Bacco sausage are combined with a savory sauce made from tomatoes, cream and white truffle oil. It is so exceptional that it almost steals the spotlight from the pizza.
Biga also has an impressive cheese and charcuterie program, as well as a number of small plates including calamari and risotto croquettes. Soups and a few entrees including roasted chicken and salmon round out the menu. Desserts mainly comprise gelato and sorbetto, made from scratch in small batches every day.
Pizzeria Biga is a must-try for any Italian-food lover. While the superb pizza is the star, the rest of the menu shines just as brightly.